Winging it in... Boston

I`D BUILD A BIG TALL HOUSE, WITH ROOMS BY THE DOZEN

I’ve had a long busy day today, and consequently I am quite late with this week’s entry, so I’ll try and keep it short and quick- if only to please the two people I know who read it.

This time last year I made my first trip to Newport, RI to visit and dream about the life that could have been… the Newport Mansions, or the “summer cottages” of quite possibly some of the wealthiest individuals the East Coast would ever know. On my first trip I purchased a year long membership, and while it has served me well, I have made four trips to Newport, and seen numerous houses, today is the last weekend I could use it. So one final farewell trip was in order.

As it is the beginning of the season only three of the houses are currently open. Personally I prefer to visit at this time of year because I would much rather have personal guided tours than an audiotape one. (Actually showing my age there, as I’m sure they are now all digital and not on actual cassette tapes any more.) Having previously visited “The Breakers”, and “Marble House” today was the turn of “The Elms”. Whilst I do prefer a real live guide I have in the past, been known to correct slightly inaccuracies that may occur in their commentary. (Obviously I am perfect and therefore never make any!) But today, despite a few errors when it came to describing a painting of the Punic Wars, I did let it slide. (Cough 146BC). I think I was distracted by the incredibly glamorous girl who seemed to have inadvertently worn black tights, long navy socks and brown shoes- very incongruous with the rest of her attire and appearance.

The Elms was the summer residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Julius Berwind of Philadelphia and New York. The Berwinds made their fortune in the Pennsylvania coal industry. The house was started in 1898 and completed in 1901. It was modeled after the mid-18th century French chateau d’Asnieres, which was located outside Paris; in fact I believe it still is.

I am told that “The Elms” has amazing gardens, and it is in fact known for how beautiful they are, so I have little reason to doubt that this is true. However, due to the time of year there was very little to be seen. The fountains were not yet active, the potted palms were still in hot houses and the windows were still all covered and closed. I would imagine in the summer it would be a glorious view across the gardens and a flowing inside/outside space.

Mrs. Berwind died in 1922, and Mr. Berwind invited his sister, Julia, to become his hostess at his New York and Newport houses. Mr. Berwind died in 1936 and Miss Julia continued to summer at The Elms until her death in 1961, at which time the house and most of its contents were sold at public auction. I find it quite amazing that these great houses were commissioned, built and enjoyed for such a short period of time. They cost millions to build, they house real treasures from all over the globe, and yet within one generation of the family they were being sold off to preservation trusts.

After the house it was time for the train: The Old Colony and Newport Railway. It was a ten mile trip along the bay, with some very pretty views. The Parlor Car is an 1884 private parlor car with individual wicker chairs, all facing the Bay. The parlor car also includes the presence of a full retention toilet, a pot belly stove, the conductor's office, and a food preparation area, all helpfully pointed out by our conductor who was an interesting chap, if a little unsteady on his feet. I did begin to wonder exactly what I had paid for when he announced “the entertainment” but it turns out he was just going to talk about brush wood!

It was a very cute train, and enjoyable 80 mins, so picturesque coastline and a change to see the USS Saratoga- apparently 200ft longer than the Titanic. The conductor did try to share lots more information, but it was about boats and I ha found an Easter Cookie in my bag and my attention was lost.

I arrived home just in time to try a new burger restaurant that has opened in the Prudential Center- 5 Napkin Burger. I have to thank ET and HR for accompanying me here (rare blog mention)- I never would have found it on my own, I have a really bad sense of direction, I have to use GPS to get to my own kitchen. But really the star of the evening was HR’s brand new bag! I was allowed to look at the bag, but on the condition I didn’t get too close, breath on/ near it, or touch it.

So 5NB- it was its opening weekend and I’m not sure if I should cut them some slack for that or not. On one hand it is all new and new things take time to master, or whether they should have been playing their A game to ensure happy customers and return business. The waiter, Steve, tried his best, and was attentive, once we had finally been seated. However, this did take some time. When we arrived we were told it was going to be a 30-minute wait for a table. This, in my experience, usually means more like 20 minutes. In this case it turned out to be 50 minutes and a complaint about how long we had been there before we were seated. I have absolutely no objection to waiting 50 minutes for a table, but I like to know in advance. It is the “tell the customer what they want to hear” attitude that gets me riled very quickly. So, having finally been seated Steve very efficiently took our order. Then we waited, waited, were told it would only be a few more minutes and would we like drink refills, waited, waited a bit more, asked how long it would be, waited and finally…. Some food arrived! My burger was very tasty, not at all what I had order, but nice. I am sure the chef has a much better idea of how a burger should be than me. But why ask me how I want my burger (without the lettuce, tomato and medium/ well) if you are going to serve me what you think I should be eating (with the lettuce, tomato and rare)? I have never had a medium/well burger before in which blood was still evident. Could have been worse, I could have asked for it rare- in which case I can only assume a calf would have appeared at the table. It would also have been nice if the fries had arrived with the burger, and not ten minutes later after we had asked for them- again.

All in all probably worth a revisit, if there is no wait time- if only to make HR run home again- turns out that however cold it is outside you can always measure your steps. ET has very large paces, HR and mine are about the same, but I walk in double quick time, leaving HR to run- even while on the phone. I guess if we were nice we would have slowed down for her…